Frequently Asked Lawn Care Questions
Your go-to guide for a greener, healthier lawn — backed by years of hands-on landscaping experience.
How often should I mow my lawn in New England?
You should mow your lawn every 1–2 weeks during the growing season, adjusting for weather and grass growth rate. In spring and early summer, grass in New England grows quickly, so weekly mowing keeps it healthy and prevents scalping. During hot midsummer, growth may slow or stop, meaning mowing every 2 weeks — or even less — is fine. Taller mowing heights (around 4¼ inches) help shade the soil and retain moisture, while shorter grass (around 3 inches) gives a manicured look but requires more frequent cutting. Avoid cutting off more than one-third of the blade length at a time to reduce stress.
Why is my grass turning yellow even though I water it?
Yellow grass can result from nutrient deficiencies, overwatering, heat dormancy, or disease. Overwatering can drown roots and leach nutrients from the soil, leading to pale or yellow blades. In summer heat, many cool-season grasses naturally go dormant, turning yellow or brown until temperatures cool. Other possible causes include nitrogen deficiency, compacted soil that limits oxygen flow, fungal diseases, or concentrated pet urine spots. A soil test can confirm nutrient needs, while adjusting watering and mowing practices can help restore color.
What’s the difference between lawn dethatching and aeration?
Dethatching removes the dead grass layer on top, while aeration loosens compacted soil below the surface. Thatch is a spongy layer of dead stems, roots, and debris between the green grass and the soil. Too much thatch (over ½ inch thick) prevents water and nutrients from reaching the roots. Dethatching removes this layer using specialized rakes or power equipment. Aeration, on the other hand, uses a machine to pull plugs of soil from the lawn, reducing compaction and allowing roots to grow deeper. Many lawns benefit from both, but they target different problems.
How much should I water my lawn each week?
Most lawns need 1–1.5 inches of water weekly from rain or irrigation. Deep, infrequent watering — once or twice a week — encourages strong root systems and makes grass more drought-tolerant. Use a rain gauge or an empty tuna can to measure how much water your sprinklers provide. In sandy soils, water may need to be applied more often but in smaller amounts, while clay soils hold water longer. Always water in the early morning to reduce evaporation and minimize fungal growth.
When is the best time to fertilize my lawn?
Fertilize in early spring, late spring/early summer, late summer/early fall, and late fall for winterizing. Cool-season grasses in New England respond best to a balanced fertilization schedule that aligns with active growth periods. Spring feedings restore nutrients lost over winter. Late summer and early fall feedings repair heat damage and promote root development before winter. A winterizer application in late fall strengthens roots and improves early spring green-up.
What is a lawn winterizer and why should I use one?
A winterizer is a fall fertilizer that boosts root strength and nutrient storage for winter survival. Applied in late fall (after the last mow but before the ground freezes), a winterizer contains more nitrogen for green color retention and phosphorus for root health. This helps grass store energy to survive cold temperatures and encourages strong spring growth. Skipping a winterizer can lead to slower recovery after winter stress.
How can I protect my lawn from frost and winter burn?
Keep your lawn healthy before winter to reduce frost and winter burn damage. A healthy lawn is more resilient to winter stress. Fertilize in late fall, keep grass at a moderate height (around 2½–3 inches) before the final mow, and remove leaves and debris to prevent mold. Avoid walking on frozen grass, as it can cause breakage. Where salt is used for de-icing, create barriers or rinse affected areas in early spring to prevent salt damage.
Why is fall cleanup important for my lawn?
Fall cleanup prevents disease and prepares your lawn for a healthy spring start. Leaves left on the lawn can block sunlight, trap moisture, and encourage fungal diseases. Removing debris also discourages pests that overwinter in plant material. Fall is a good time to aerate, overseed, and fertilize so your lawn enters winter strong and greens up faster in spring.
Can I seed and fertilize my lawn at the same time?
Yes, use a starter fertilizer to promote seed germination and early growth. Starter fertilizers have a higher phosphorus content to promote root development, with enough nitrogen to encourage early greening. Avoid using high-nitrogen lawn fertilizers, as they can burn young seedlings. Water lightly but consistently until seeds germinate and roots establish.
How do I know if my lawn needs aeration?
Signs of compaction, like bare patches, pooling water, or hard soil, mean aeration is needed. If your lawn feels hard underfoot or water sits on the surface after rain, the soil may be compacted. Grass in compacted soil struggles to grow deep roots and may thin out. Aeration, ideally done in fall or spring, pulls soil plugs to relieve compaction, improve drainage, and allow nutrients to penetrate.
Why is moss growing in my lawn?
Moss grows where grass struggles, often due to shade, poor drainage, or acidic soil. Moss thrives in low-fertility, compacted, or constantly damp soils. Shaded areas with little airflow also encourage moss growth. To reduce moss, improve drainage, trim nearby trees for more sunlight, and adjust soil pH with lime if needed. Overseeding with shade-tolerant grass varieties can also help.
Can I mow my lawn when it’s wet?
You can mow wet grass, but it’s not ideal and can damage your lawn. Wet mowing often results in clumped grass, uneven cuts, and mower wheel ruts. It can also spread fungal diseases. If you must mow, set blades higher, mow slowly, and clean clumps to prevent smothering the grass. Always use sharp mower blades for cleaner cuts.
How often should I prune bushes?
Most bushes need yearly pruning, with some requiring light trimming twice a year. Early spring pruning removes dead or damaged wood before new growth. Summer pruning can shape plants and control size. Flowering shrubs should be pruned after blooming to avoid removing next year’s buds. Always use clean, sharp tools to prevent disease spread.
What are the benefits of pruning bushes?
Pruning improves plant health, appearance, and growth. Removing dead or diseased branches directs energy to healthy growth, while shaping plants enhances curb appeal. Pruning also improves air circulation, reducing the risk of fungal diseases. Regular pruning prevents plants from becoming overgrown, which can lead to poor flowering and increased pest problems.
How thick should mulch be for flower beds?
Apply 2–3 inches of mulch for new beds, 1.5–2 inches for existing ones. Mulch helps retain soil moisture, regulate temperature, and suppress weeds. For new beds, a thicker layer (up to 4 inches if needed) provides better weed control. For established beds, a thinner layer prevents root suffocation. Avoid piling mulch directly against stems to reduce rot risk.
Do I need to remove old mulch before adding new mulch?
Not always, but remove excess if mulch is too thick or matted.Over time, mulch breaks down and adds organic matter to the soil. If the existing layer is more than 3–4 inches thick, rake away some before adding new mulch to avoid suffocating roots and encouraging pests. Fluffing compacted mulch can improve airflow and appearance.